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About Siargao Island

About Siargao
Not many people have heard of Siargao. Nonetheless, the numbers of local and foreign tourists who troop to the Island are steadily increasing every year. Its sites and attractions remain to be one of the best-kept secrets where unspoiled islands and beach hideaways are concerned. Still, enthusiastic endorsements by word-of-mouth have already reached as far as the U.S., France, Germany, England, Australia and Japan.

Many foreign tourists who have gone there have heard of Siargao only through friends. Most are regulars who frequent the beaches yearly, staying for weeks; months even, on each visit. Like satisfied customers who can't get enough in one visit, they always come back. Hooked to the rural charms of the city whose 17 islands and its surrounding waters beckon to be experienced repeatedly.

Siargao Swimming
The current favourite is the 27-mile long white sugar-fine sand strip of Gen. Luna, Siargao Island. Others like Basul Island and Sagisi Beach in Brgy. San Jose is fringed with cream collared coarse sand. The shores of Danawan Island are richly adorned with colourful seashells sprinkled with coral bits and pieces.

Unique in its own way is the municipality of Pilar, also on Siargao Island. Its beach is situated in a cove facing the Pacific, surrounded by limestone and granite sculptures. At low tide its pockmarked limestone floors reveal pools of assorted shapes and sizes.

Siargao snorkelling & Siargao Scuba diving
Some islets hardly have any sand at all; only boulders and rocky beaches where marine life flourishes. In clear shallow waters a diving mask will easily reveal starfishes, sea urchins, molluscs, crabs and schools of fish in various shapes, colours and sizes.

The Zaragoza rock formation in Sibale Island has a one-hectare beach park of dagger-shaped structures as high as 20-feet arising from waist-deep crystal clear waters. Nearby are two white-sand beaches and an underwater maze of rock and coral formation favoured by scuba divers.

Succulent Siargao seafood
Marlins, tuna, groupers, crabs … even squids, rays and octopuses can be bought fresh and cheap from the fish vendors and fishermen. Many who have tried game-fishing and spear-fishing were not disappointed by the bountiful seas of Siargao. Game-fishing competitions are held every August along the city's coastal waters.

Siargao sailing
Part of the fun is island-hopping using any of the available modes of sea transport: motor launches or bancas fitted with sack-cloth sails. A handful of habitués who like to stay for months have their own sailboats built here. Yachts usually operated by Australians are not an unusual sight in Siargao either. There are also a few catamarans and kayaks for rent.

During summer the waters off General Luna is colourfully dotted with sailboats and sailbancas, especially during its fiesta celebration when the General Luna Annual Siargao Regatta or Siargao Sailboat race is held. Siargao Coast is conveniently fenced in by several miles of reefs. This natural barrier keeps the inlet waters placid even during bad weather. At high tide only the giant waves from the Pacific can be heard and seen. At low tide, when the reefs are exposed, people can leisurely wade amidst its shallow waters.

Siargao spelunking
Some Surrounding Islands have several caves and tunnels in its islands. Some are submerged in water most of the time. Such is the Suhoton Cave at Bucas Grande Island. Others, like the Silop Cave in the mainland are cathedral-like caverns glowing with luminescent spires of stalactites and stalagmites. The Buenavista Cave in Hikdop Island has three tunnels leading to a cavernous tunnel three kilometres long. It has a knee-deep pool inside and a palatial chamber replete with a "king's throne." The Suy-ang Cave in Quezon, in Dinagat with its high Gothic interior is another must-see for cave explorers. The mainland caves of Mapawa are actually a labyrinth of several caves interconnected by tunnels and hallways.

Spectacular Siargao seascapes
Surrounding bigger islands are usually mountainous and rich in minerals as well. Nonoc Island has one of the world's largest deposits of nickel, while Dinagat Island has major reserves of chromites. The smaller ones either rest on sand and gravel, or have a limestone base bounded by boulders, reefs and sandbars.

Some islets like those in Del Carmen, Siargao are actually nothing more than a cluster of rock formations jutting out from the sea crowned with shrubs and coconut trees. Sculptured by the wind and water, some are as big as and even look like ships. Rock formations in San Roque and Hagakhak in Dinagat resemble a melting candle, a duck and an eagle.

There's more to Siargao than Surfing. It's a big Island, with a beautiful and varied Environment, and Sea Kayaking is a great way to explore some of it.

There are also springs, lagoons, coves, waterfalls, mangrove forests and whirlpools which make more appealing to all nature lovers. The more popular waterfalls are those of Sta. Monica in Siargao, and the 70-ft. Buyho Falls in Brgy. San Jose, Bayagnan Island.

On the same island is the whistling whirlpool of Bitaugan, an awesome maelstrom that appears and disappears at intervals accompanied by a distinct whistling rumbling sound. Visible only during low tide, the whirlpool has been known to suck bancas although it is only 10 meters from the shore.

Needless to say, outdoor photographers will have a grand time in Siargao’s marvellous settings. For everyone else, a vacation in any of these islands is nothing less than an exhilarating break from life in the city. It is communing with nature minus the comforts of modern living.

Getting There
From Cebu City, it can be reached by a 45-minute flight via Philippine Airlines five days weekly; by a 12-hour overnight boat trip which departs every evening on weekdays. From the mainland there are motor launches playing the major island barangays daily or SeAir Now Flies 3 times a week to SIARGAO from Cebu.

Once in Siargao, adventure-seekers and beach lovers who have only heard of Boracay and Dakak will be surprised to see the wonders of this Island. The truly remarkable sites and attractions are as diverse as the topography of the islands and islets. Most activities are being enjoyed.

Guide to Siargao

General Luna (GL) is just a small town at the edge of the world. It is safe, clean and friendly, the laid back kind of place where you could stop by for two or three days and not want to leave for a year. It is undeveloped and unspoiled, and that's the charm of it.

Surfing - Just up the road at Tuason Point, is world class Cloud 9, the best surf break (a barrelling right hander) in the Philippines. A short boat ride out in the lagoon beyond, takes you out to Rock island, Stimpy's and a few more breaks, stretching right up the east coast to Pilar, Pacifico and Burgos. Just a short walk from the town is the Cemetery's, and Jacking Horse, and depending on the season there's even a mellow break in front of Dako Island, right in front of GL itself. When you can see the waved breaking on Dako Island from GL, you'll know it's pumping at Cloud 9.

The surfing season starts from August to March, but you might be lucky and catch a good wave at any time of the year. In October, an International Surfing contest is held at Cloud 9, with world class and local participants (who are learning fast).

The sea bed drops to 500 meters, then to 1500 just a mile off Tuason Point and the reef. Just thirty miles off GL, it is 10,000 meters deep. (That is Mt. Everest plus another 3000 feet). Typhoons in season pass GL to the North East, and they bring the big waves in from the deep water.

But there is a lot more to do in GL if the surf isn't up.

Boat trips - Not to be missed is a full day boat trip to Sohoton Lagoon. A magical place, overhung by Jungle cliffs where you can swim into caves with bats, strange fishes, stalactites and rock oysters, weird corals, pitcher plants, cycads and wild orchids. But take a flashlight and go when the tide is low during midday. The only entrance to the lagoon is through a natural cave tunnel, hanging with stalactites and with strong currents. The cost is around P500 per person, but it well worth it.

You can organize your boat trips and get a take away cold box with ice, soft drinks and beer, on a sale or return basis, plus a good, solid, packed lunch for a day out from the PUB.

Around GL, you should pop across the lagoon to Guyam, the perfect palm-fringed islet, Dako and its white sand beach, coral reefs and friendly villagers. Or visit Pansukian (Naked Island) a white sand spit with coral all around. A day trip to all three should cost around P600. If you are feeling brave or foolhardy, try rocky, jungled Hanoyoy, and see if all the talk about buried treasures and wok-woks (forest spirits) are really true. Beyond Dako are La Janosa, Mamon and little Antokon, with crystal clear water, coral reefs and white sand, rolling breakers and friendly villagers for about Php700 return.

Down towards Union from GL is Pansukian Resort (Rambo's)- very up market. Until the bridge across to Union is repaired, you'll have to call a fisherman's boat to ferry you or you can swim across. You could stop in Latitude 9 resort, by Union, which has a good beach and good refreshment at Neneng's in town.

Up the coast, just past Pilar, is Magpapungko, and it's natural rock swimming hole. Scoured clean by every tide, it is a great place for a picnic. Beyond, you could go to Pacifico, Burgos or Alegria, all with great beaches and surf breaks. You could visit all three in a day for about P800. Jun Gonzales has surf camps in Pilar, Pacifico and Burgos, and knows more about that coast than anybody. Dipo Richard has an amazing bamboo resort and makes revolutionary bamboo finish surf boards in Burgos, where the wind and waves sometimes give surf when it’s not workings at GL. There are cottages to rent at Alegria which has a beautiful beach.

On the west coast of Siargao are Kaob, Poneas Island and Del Carmen (Numancia). Kaob, with its own secret lagoon, pristine corals and beaches. Poneas island has a whole slew of coral islands, jungle and limestone mountains. Del Carmen, fringed with mangrove forest, one should not miss the famous crocodile.

Motorcycles & Jeeneys - A Habal-habal motorcycle is literally, the kind of joyful coupling pigs do-makin' bacon. You'll see why when you see a full load of local passengers. They take about six Filipinos but only two or three of you. A full day trip, all around the island, will cost around P600.00. Often, there are organized jeepney day trips for groups, with food and beer, to the waterfalls, caves, beaches, surf breaks and one or two secret places, depending on who's taking you. You could rent a motorcycle in GL, for about P600/day, and get around the island yourself. There are few road signs, so take a compass. Otherwise, you could get around by the regular jeepneys, but they tend to arrive and depart at strange times.

You can get a habal-habal to Cloud 9 from opposite Lalay's in the main street for about P50 per person (P75 at night), and jeepneys to Dapa from Maridyl's. A habal-habal to Dapa should cost around P100 or the jeepney's only P10.

Diving & Snorkelling - There's plenty to see (fish, corals, sea snakes, etc, but no big sharks) snorkelling on the reefs around Guyam and Dako (you can just drift with the current along the drop-off). Around Pansukian, the coral reefs are great, (even better at night time) and you can explore reefs in front of Tuason Point (but please not under the break itself), and in La Janosa and Mamon. The Mayor of GL (the Ex Mayor now, for technical electoral reasons only) personally and forcefully stopped dynamite and cyanide fishing in GL some years ago. A marine reserve is planned for part of the lagoon to re-establish the reef and fish population for divers and snorkellers. A huge underwater cave with four to five separate entrances was recently discovered under the first rock islands in front of Tuason, and the Blue Cathedral just off Caridad, north of Pilar. Underwater visibility and topography are outstanding.

Fishing - The sailfish and blue marlin season, when the big fish (sailfish to 40kg, marlin to 200) cruise the deep water only a mile or two out of GL, really hums from March to early May. But you could fish for coral trout, large snappers and other reef fish anytime, or get a local fisherman to take you out to the payao, a floating fish attractor about five miles beyond guyam, and troll for bolis (skipjack) or barilis (yellow fin tuna). You can catch tanguigue (Spanish mackerel), huge Pacific tuna, and morang (dolphin fish). In the lagoon, you can get Bayo (Long toms)- they're fun to catch but a little too bony to eat.

Sailing - GL lagoon must be one of the safest, easiest and most pleasurable places to sail anywhere in the world. See if you can persuade Pirate Pete or Visayan Andrew to take you for a fast sail and a few beers around the lagoon. You could try renting a paddle barota (15minutes to Guyam if you ever get the hang of it).

Swimming - Well, perhaps swimming in GL at low tide isn't the greatest, but try it at high tide or at down or dusk, when the water is freshest, or at night when the moon is out and the water is phosphorescent. You can get to Guyam in about half-an-hour if you are fit. Dako has the nearest very good swimming beach at any tide, and the swimming at Mamon is like being a virgin olive in a very dry martini.

Caving - There is a huge cave at Consuelo, with stalactites, stalagmites, rock crystals, piles of bat guano, a million bats and even a huge python, but you'll have to be fit to get there. There's another at Malinao, on the way to Union.

Jungles - Siargao is one of the only islands in the Philippines where tarsiers (small lemurs or bush babies, extinct almost anywhere else) are still common. See monitor lizards six feet long, hornbills, parrots, yellow and black lorikeets, kingfishers, and other birds nobody yet knows the names of.

Basketball - This must be the Filipinos' most popular sport, and even if they're not that tall, they are probably a great deal better- join the boys in a game in the street, or catch a match at the municipal stadium.

Cockfighting - Filipino cocks (roosters) are quite small, but you will often see a GL man proudly stroking his rooster in the street. Cockfights are on Sundays, about 1pm, out of town, just past N&M and Jade star. It's a great day out, if you're not a vegetarian. If you can understand the betting, win a little bit, but not too much - it's the local's only chance to make a bit extra, so don't beat the bank. Tip - bet on and watch for the owner's T-shirt, not the bird - after a bit of rumpus, both contestants look tattered and patchy.

Mountain Biking - Ask the PUB for a mountain bike rental, and try some cross-country biking. There is an International Mountain Bike Competition held in March every year, but to tell the truth, it's more like surfing than biking at that time of year, in the wet season.

Sitting around - Probably the most popular active sport in GL, it's remarkably relaxing, restorative and healthful. Watch the fishermen at down, the clouds and the waves in the day or the moon at night. It’s up to you if you just sit and think or just sit.

Sickness - There is not Malaria in GL. Some big, fit visitor will tell you they caught dengue fever, but most would call it Flu. Alcoholism is rife.

Shopping - At Maridyl's, on the main street, you can get general supplies, fruit, vegetables, snack, etc. Rosita's probably has the best medicines. Marcha's (go down behind Maridyl's and turn one block left) stocks hardware, bamboo hats, stationery, and all sorts. There are many sari-sari stores scattered through the town, which sell odds & sods, fresh fruit in season, Tuba wine, etc., and there are bakeries opposite the church and beside Rosita's which do hamburger rolls and fresh sweet breads.

Most mornings, about 6am, 9am, and noon, jeepneys to go Dapa, where you can get most things (but no banks-you'll have to make a day trip to Surigao for that- go at dawn, come back at noon).

Food, drink, nightlife - At Maridyl's or Lalay's in the main street, you can get cheap beer, Filipino food, and take in the street scene or another action video. Ruth has great chicken & pork barbecue, just between the two. Out at Cloud 9, you could try Snag Miguel's beach bar and restaurant, or 5 Lyns cafe in Katangnan, The Green Room or Jungle Reef and maybe Veneria's Karaoke/disco. In the evening, after nine, try the Melvinbo Disco, for sweaty group bopping, or Seven-Eleven Karaoke/Restaurant (the restaurant isn’t up to much, but the singers are great and you could even try a song yourself), in town. They are a bit primitive, but good fun. Opposite Seven Eleven is El Nino Loco, a bit of an up-market bar.

But, if you want a really good quality feed at reasonable prices (Prawns or fish steaks in batter or banana leaves, curry, spaghetti, fish soup, mash, salad, etc), ice cold beer, breakfast (try Surfer's super fry), the infamous game of Squares, pool, backgammon, or chess, good music, great chat and a pleasant atmosphere, you must of course go to the PUB. It's down by the sea in GL itself. Go down the main street to the school, turn left, right at the end of the concrete, and straight on, or turn 2nd left after the bridge coming from Cloud 9.

Getting to know people - GL people are very friendly and hospitable, if sometimes a little shy. Smile and you'll get a radiant smile back. The girls are very beautiful and very charming, but well behaved. There is no hooker scene in GL, and nobody wants one. Fishermen often picnic by the beach or on Guyam, and may invite you for a shot of Tanduay rum, Kulafu medicinal wine, tuba coconut wine or pa-oroi strong nipa wine. Beware, they are more intoxicating than they seem. Try kinilaw, fresh fish steeped in vinegar, lemon juice, ginger and onions, refreshing and delicious. They might offer iro, dog stew, which is worth trying (once), litson (roast pig) or kanding (roast goat), worth trying anytime. Get a lad to climb a tree for fresh butong, coconut juice straight from the nut. Try Halo-halo, a great refresher with ice, condensed milk, fruit and all sorts of other stuff. Poot-poot, featured as a delicious dish in all the guidebooks, is actually a tiny fish, salted, rotted down, and fermented, exclusive to GL, and in great demand throughout the Philippines, but perhaps not quite to your taste.

Getting to GL (and back) - The super cat leaves CEBU to SURIGAO via Maasin on Leyte most mornings, for a four hour trip arriving in Surgao after lunch, and returns in the afternoon. Overnight boats leave Cebu in the evening, arriving Surigao in the early morning and go back the next night, except for Mondays. Air Mindanao has sparse schedule from Cebu to Surigao.

Buses come and go to Surigao from Davao (for Samal Island resorts, Lake Sebu (T'Boli people), Mount Apo, etc and on to General Santos for a quick 48 hours run to Manado in Sulawesi (Indonesia)and for Butuan and Cagayan de Oro (Camiguin Island).

Fast boats (Aska Queen, Fortune Jet and Tropical Queen) all take about 1.5 to 2 hours P100. Leave Surigao for Dapa on Siargao Island about 5:30am, or just rest a bit and catch one of them on the second, noon run. In an emergency, or if one or all of them have technical problems, check out the pier at Bilang-bilang in Surigao for small lanchas (pumpboats/outriggers) sailing to Dapa.

Staying in GL – You can find most of the places to stay at the link below. http://www.surigaoislands.com/accomodation.html

Communications - You probably came to get away from it all at the edge of the world, but there is an international telephone and post office in the Municipal Hall and Loloy Torres will help you phone from his house after hours and at weekends. The Cybernet Cafe at the Leomondee Hotel in Surigao is the best, but there are others if that's offline or crowded.

Banks - If you need to top up on cash, you’ll have to go to Surigao, to the PCI Bank RCBC or Equitable Bank. They both have ATM machines where you can use Visa, Cirrus and local cards. There is a moneychanger opposite Visayan Marketing.

Surigao - If you are stuck in Surigao or just want a break, in the city or catch sports and news on cable TV, try Metro Pension Plaza or Jannex, or The Gateway, which is a tad more expensive.

At night, a good sleazy experience can be had at Valerie's or Eve's dancing girls’ joints and it's even sleazier around the corner in places like Irish Jane's. Try the Chicken barbecue stands by the pier in Bilang-bilang. Get good food with live singers and bands at Mack's Foodland, Coco Cabin, jannex or Frank Lloyd's or Ling Wan for good local food. There is very good food at The Greenery by Metrobank. Try the Baho KTV if you feel like joining in with raucous 50s/60s sing-alongs.

Get your visa renewed in an hour at the Immigration office near Philcom (photocopies on the corner, pay at the Treasury Office, left of City Hall, second floor at the right hand end of the back building). Buy most things at Jerry's or Palma supermarkets, boating/diving/fishing gear at Visayan Marketing, electronics at Pat's opposite Mack's food land, film at Karjel's and medicines at Mercury Drug. A tricycle trip in town should cost P2, but be a bit more generous at night.

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Siargao Island..
…is a beautiful island only three hours, by boat, eastward, from Surigao, Mindanao, Philippines.

At this Web site you can learn some about this island and some about the working conditions in the Philippines.

Give it some of your time